Nubra, etc.

We returned from the Nubra Valley on Saturday, skidding along the highest motor-able road in the world and over Khardung-la (18,380 ft). While in Nubra, we had the misfortune of visiting hot springs, which turned out to be nothing more than a grimy stream channeled in two places into small concrete stalls for bathing or washing clothes in ankle deep water. On the way to the hot spring I'd been showing Kunzes some photos on my camera. Both of us were looking down at the screen when we came to a small bridge with a sign reading "photography strictly prohibited." The guards asked for my camera with someone in the back seat yelling "take the memory card out!" loud enough for the magpies to take flight. While the soldiers examined my family photos, we examined their mustaches (the size and shape of which the Indian army pay-scale is based), and waited tensely for them to either give up trying to work the camera, or realize that traveling with photos of the Bridge family doesn't amount to a terrorist plot. They gave the camera back and the driver gunned it. After the hot grime, we returned to Hundar and rode the double-humped camels abandoned by traders once upon a time in the Nubra desert. Strangest animal I think I've ever seen.

Since returning to Secmol, we hadn't left the campus until today, and I can't complain. The days have been full, yet relaxing. My eyes seem to shoot open at 6:15 before I walk to the toilet and try to get back to sleep without success. Before breakfast I often do push-ups and sit-ups and pull-ups in the poplar grove. After breakfast I absorb the sun outside while laughing with the Ladakhis and practicing some phrases. Everyone on campus works on something, whether gathering rocks, raking, picking or hanging vegetables to dry for the winter or building something, from nine to ten. Then we have English conversation, talking about culture in Ladakh, the U.S., and countries represented by other volunteers--a way for Secmol students to practice English, and for everyone to learn more about each other. Tea is at eleven, and then us VISpas ("pa"=person of, as in "Ladagspa") have our Ladakhi class. There might be some down time after that. Yesterday we had a meeting though, where VISpas shared their project goals for the next ten days before we do a mini-trek. Ideas are becoming pretty solid now: Thayer will interview NGOs about pollution before doing lessons and fun activities at schools; Ellen will volunteer at Mahobodi's school and possibly other facilities; Katy is searching for organizations to apply for grants for on behalf of a new AIDS project in Leh, and will probably help this project in other ways; Will is planning an event at the polo grounds to bring thousands of Ladakhis together to celebrate community with traditional dancers, NGOs, speakers, and art, while highlighting the concept of 350 parts per million of carbon in our air, a goal recognized by 350.org; Kayla will research health issues in Ladadkh with traditional and western practitioners; Howie will help with the dog sterilization project; and Sooner will collect traditional recipes from the region. And of course Amy and I are keeping nice and busy on the sidelines of all of these projects, while Amy tries to dive deeper into her understanding of solar energy, and I fumble around on the piano. By the way, I need to thank all of the people who donated to the music project, which has been an immediate success, and will only grow as we bring more equipment and books next spring. But where was I... After lunch the schedule is sometimes vague. Students have other campus responsibilities, from accounting to milking the cows, which are done either in the evening or as necessary throughout the day. I generally go for a run and teach music, practice my Ladakhi, and so forth. A great benefit lately has been karate classes with a German volunteer named Lara, whose class seems to grow each time. (While my mental balance teeters in thin air, my physical balance is at least stabilizing.) After dinner we might have a VIS activity, or the whole campus might have song and dance or game or movie night. And we're grinning ear to ear. Expect when the space bar in the internet cafe sticks word after word after word after...