Nepal

Thamel is the most popular neighborhood for tourists in Kathmandu, which for me translates to a good time, plenty of relaxation, and interesting people to meet in a place that might as well be anywhere else in the world. A warped view of Kathmandu--a warped view of Nepal. Still, spending a few days here before venturing north to Pokhara (another heavily touristde area) reminded me that I am supposed to be slipping into vacation mode. My main problem is that I seem to have a knack for feeling relaxed even on the job, so when I'm not working it doesn't fel all that different and I look for little assignments I need to complete.

Heading up to Pokhara was a good experience, and felt a little like a summer camp. Getting away from the smog of Kathmandu was also nice. We went fishing, hiking, horseback riding, canoeing on the lake and bonded with some inspiring new people at night. One was a Quebecan (?) writer/lecturer/social worker, with whom we attempted to wait out a monsoon rain at our restaurant table. Finally the rain never stopped and we walked through it laughing. We also met a Nepali who'd moved to the states at age thirteen. He took us to natural hot springs unknown to foreigners and to a nearby home/restaurant for some local food. I haven't felt much better in life than I felt after those hot springs. The river they sit beside is called the Sethi (white) river, because it is white from the limestone it carries. Not the white of rapids, but really a rich silvery color. Sliding back and forth between the cool river and hot springs between lush green mountains and waterfalls in the distance, I think I finally embraced vacation mode fully. Our Nepali friend came to visit us at our guest house back in Pokhara later that night and we talked politics until sleep started knocking.

Politically it's an interesting time to be here. Nepal's congress got rid of the king's power in 2006, forming a parliamentary democracy. Last August a Maoist prime minister was elected but failed in the eyes of many Nepalis. Then three weeks ago he stepped down after the president vetoed his attempt to sack the army general and instate a Maoist to that post.